When FAWE invited Sudha and me to conduct the workshop for AWATS coordinators in Nairobi (don’t worry about the abbreviations), visions of the African lions, Big Cats and the zebras wandering placidly in the huge game reserves of Kenya began to haunt me. To be frank, the only lions I had seen were in the Delhi zoo and the only wildlife sanctuary I had ever been was near Munnar. The lions in the Delhi zoo were dozing away in their cages, thanks to the super hot weather in May which never deters Delhi citizens from making a beeline to the zoo. In Munnar, after hours of driving, I could just about get some glimpses of an elephant herd hiding behind thick jungle. Tigers – forget it!
When my nephew — who is an incorrigible wildlife fan — came to know that I was about to embark on a trip to Kenya, he called me and enquired excitedly, “Mama, are you planning to go to Masai Mara, Tsavo or Samburu or all of them? May be you can even make it to Kilimanjaro.” I paused for several moments. It’s not good to reveal one’s ignorance to nephews. There can be a lot of trouble later. So, I replied cautiously, “I would love to go to all of them. But looks like it will take a week for each”. To which he replied, “Mama, don’t come back without visiting at least one of them. I am sure you will do your project well, but what’s the use if you haven’t seen the Big Cats?” The general tone he conveyed through this important conversation was that I cannot expect to hold onto my popularity-rating, if I don’t come back with photos of lions staring at me and giraffe’s chasing my safari van.
When I conveyed my predicament to Sudha she feverishly emailed to various tourist operators to find out what kind of packages they were offering. It turned out that a rendezvous with lions and Big Cats required atleast 3 days. Besides the workshop days, our calendar was already full with appointments. In one of those insane moments we had also included a 2-day foray into Ethiopia. When we said we wanted to do some marketing in Kenya and Ethiopia, Malli and Anjali took it a bit too seriously and lined up a lot of appointments. We had just a weekend to spare. So, we settled for a visit to the Nairobi National Park.

Nairobi National Park is no pushover compared to Masai Mara (atleast that is what I consoled myself with). The Park is just 7 kms away from Nairobi city centre. Only a fence separates the park from the metropolis. It is not uncommon, I heard, that some animals now and then decide to take a day out and visit nearby homes! The Park covers 117 kms (this I noted from Wikipedia).
Aruna, who played the double role of client and host, prepared a lunch bag for all of us. Aruna’s house was a home away from home. She made sure that Sudha and I were well fed and would return to India with body and soul more energized. I had the luxury of having upma for breakfast and sambar for dinner right in the heart of eastern Africa. But let me not digress.
Suresh, her husband, took the wheel. Amartya, their 4 ½ year old son, took up his place on my lap. And with Sudha, armed with binoculars and camera, we all set out for the Park early morning.
The Park has a large and diverse wildlife population (if wikipedia were to be believed). Species normally found in the park include African buffalo, baboon, black rhinoceros, Burchell’s zebra, cheetah, Coke’s hartebeest, Grant’s gazelle, hippopotamus, leopard, lion, Thomson’s gazelle, eland, impala, Masai giraffe, ostrich, vulture, and waterbuck. But on the particular day when we set out to examine the Park, it was a day off for many of the inhabitants.
When we were a few yards into the Park, there was a sudden scream from Sudha. She had spotted a bird with a phenomenally curved beak – I think it was called the Abyssinian Scimitarbill. From a distance it looked more like our familiar pigeon to me. Sudha was absolutely peeved about my ignorance. Now, to set the record straight, Sudha had a rather unfair advantage over me with respect to bird watching. Her husband, Sharad, is an avid bird watcher and probably has catalogued in his mental database at least a few hundred bird species of India. Sudha and Sharad watch the nesting habits of birds of Hyderabad through binoculars from their balcony frequently. So, the best option for me was to leave it to Sudha to explain the particular nuances of the birds. Another disadvantage I had was that I was very good at recognizing primary colours (remember RGB and CMYK from Niyam’s class). But shades and palettes were too much of a strain for me (I skipped that part of Niyam’s class). So, while it appeared to me that the bird was predominantly yellow, my observation met with wild protests from Sudha. Misguided reaction I thought. After all we were not there to conduct a census of the Park’s bird species, which at last count were about 500.
I had a feeling Suresh’s sympathies were with me. He is a very friendly soul, an excellent conversationalist. He has loads of patience also. We made him drive around the Park “n” number of times. The Park being circular, we kept coming back to the same place again and again. There were various ways one can reach the Cheetah Gate, for example. But Suresh was not flustered. Whenever he heard screams he promptly stopped or slowed down. To get a better angle of ostriches having a conclave in the middle of the savannah, he would reverse and choose a spot which offered a clear view. Amartya too soon became an expert at spotting birds through the binoculars.
We saw giraffes in plenty. In fact one very tall fellow (he really stood above the crowd as they say) blocked our road for a good 30 minutes and then had some fun chasing our car. Ostriches were also in plenty. In the plain savannah, animals could be spotted from very far off. Zebras, our good old buffaloes, vultures, gazelles and impalas were all there. But try as we may, we could not come across a singly rhino or a lion. May be the extra warm day kept them away.

The marketing presentations we did seemed to be very successful. Our potential clients had that glint in their eye, of which we are only too familiar in India. They must have thought, “Ah! here is the agency which will deliver quality work on time”.
Hopefully the lions and rhinos will be out next time and marketing plans would also include ample sight-seeing breaks.
S. Raghavan (one of our Directors)
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